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aandc2005

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What size straight router bit and shank size should I use to make speaker holes in 3/4 mdf useing my jasper circle jig? my router can except both 1/2 shank and 1/4 (Ryobi RE180PL1 plunge router)...I was thinking the 1/2 would be best but I'm not sure on the length, width?

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plexi54

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Reply with quote  #2 
Hi,I've used both sizes of shanks and both do a good job,
I like the 1/4" shank and 1/4" bit in the inch and a half
length.I use them with templates and jigs and they do a real good job.I only take about 1/4" depth at a time and it gives me a real clean cut in Ply and MDF. I like to use a backing piece of scrap under the cut until I'm all the way
through the board,it keeps fuzzing and tearout to a
minimum in MDF,oh yeah,be sure to wear a good dust mask,there is some real nasty stuff in MDF you don't want to breath.I hope this helps and see the attached pix that show what nice cuts these bits do,enjoy.
                                         Steve

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jam4jaudio

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Reply with quote  #3 
     Yeah, you can use either size bit, but I normally use a 1/4" just because it'll give you half as many wood chips to sweep up when you're done. You'll have to use a different pin hole in the jig to compensate for the different size bit (but I'm sure you knew that). I've never used a jasper circle jig. I use a router buddy which does basically the same thing.
      I agree with plexi54, cut about 1/4" with each pass. Your router and your bits will last a lot longer.  
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aandc2005

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Reply with quote  #4 
ok thanks for the info! just to make sure is this one the right one?
http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=144141&FamilyID=4665
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plexi54

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Reply with quote  #5 
Hi,you should be fine with that style of bit,  but not the dimensions in the photo,1/4 is the width of the cut,1" is the max depth it is capable of,and 1/2 is the shank size,so the bit measures 1/4 x 1 x 1/2. Sometimes mfg. list the over all  length of the bits and it can be confusing.For the hole your wanting to cut, a bit similar to this one pictured will work fine and they don't cost a great deal either.
I hope this helps,enjoy,take your time,and be careful,
spinning router bits take no prisoners.
                                                Steve

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aandc2005

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Reply with quote  #6 

ok thanks again,  I bought a 1/2 radius 1/2sh woodriver bit seem to work real nice! what brand is in the photo?

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plexi54

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Reply with quote  #7 
Hi,
Well,I'd like to tell you it's a highly classified bit only
available to NASA and other govt. agencies,but it's acutally
a run of the mill bit from Lowes,it's a good bit,and the price was good too,about $11.00  When I'm doing what
I call rough cutting,like forming baffle holes and such,a good carbide bit will get the job done fine without using up a lot of money,when I'm doing finer work, like roundovers on the corners and the edges of the cabinet, or Dovetail and Box joints,I like the Porter Cable bits,a little more money,but quality cuts and they resharpen well too,but they're just one of the many brands out there.
Hope this helps.
                                            Steve
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keithshapiro

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Reply with quote  #8 
I completely gave up on finger joints with the router, too messy to much tear out and I own both the 12" Porter Cable finger and dove tail jig, and the Leigh 24" jig.

I built a finger joint jig for my table saw and I haven't looked back. I'll post a picture if anyone wants one.

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plexi54

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Reply with quote  #9 
   Hi,
Yeah,I'd like to see some pictures of your table saw jig,I've tried some with good results,always on the look out for something better or easier.
I agree about the router and finger joints,it can be done,but all that set up,with backing boards and all that.So post the pix of your set up and lets see.
                                  Steve
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